A man using a deodorant. In Kenya, the Kenya Bureau of Standards (KEBS) outlines all requirements for manufacturing non-medicinal cosmetic products.
A good scent can have
a calming effect. A quick spray of perfume can instantly lift your spirits. A
touch of lipstick can change the tone of your entire day. A softly flickering
candle can soothe the senses after long hours of stress. These rituals have
become common over the years and are
more than cosmetic and they are emotional, cultural, and deeply personal.
Smells play a significant role in human behaviour. The
earliest known use of perfume can be traced to ancient Egypt, where plant-based
aromatic herbs, gums, and resins played
a role in spiritual rituals. Did you know that one of the highly prized
ancient essential oils, called frankincense, is also found in Kenya? Now you
know!
Today, fragrances are incorporated into a wide range of
everyday products, such as deodorants, laundry detergents, cleansers, shampoos, and conditioners, among others. In the modern pursuit of self-care and beauty, millions of women turn to fragrances,
makeup, and scented candles to feel good, boost confidence, and create moments
of calm.
Natural perfumes fall into two main categories: aromatic
compounds and musks, both derived from sources like plants, lichens, seaweed,
and oils extracted from various parts of plants. Essential oils are very
costly, and their extraction and production are a daunting task and time-consuming. In contrast,
synthetic aromatic compounds are commonly used as substitutes because they are cheaper
to produce and help overcome challenges like limited natural resources or
inconsistent product quality.
But beneath the
comforting glow and alluring aromas lies a disturbing paradox: many of these
everyday products have been found to contain phthalates and parabens, chemical
compounds that have been linked to endocrine disruptors and prostate and breast cancer. These
substances can bind to sex hormone receptors, such as estrogen (ER) and
progesterone (PR) receptors, and interfere with their normal function by
competing with natural hormones.
Fragrance is mainly used as a scent to add or mask the odour of
ingredients and has a long-term effect. Despite increasing awareness, most
consumers are unaware of their presence. Why? Because these compounds often
hide under vague labels like “fragrance” or “parfum” a legally protected term
that can include hundreds of undisclosed ingredients.
Lower molecular weight phthalates such as diethyl phthalate
(DEP) and dimethyl phthalate (DMP)and parabens are commonly used as solvents
and odourless diluents in cosmetic products like deodorants and perfumes. Higher
levels of monobutyl phthalate (MBP), monoethyl phthalate (MEP), and
mono-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (MEHP) in women’s urine was found to be more than
men which suggests more exposure to dibutyl phthalate (DBP), diethyl phthalate
(DEP), and di- (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) due to the use of perfumes and
colognes.
Among several factors studied, parabens, phthalates, nitro parabens,
phthalates, and nitro musks were identified as the main causes of breast
cancer. Parabens samples that have been found as present in 99% of human breast
tissue samples possess estrogenic activity and can stimulate sustained
proliferation of human breast cancer cells at concentrations measurable in the
breast.
Scientific studies have shown that 4 types of phthalates
were identified as being significantly associated with an elevated risk of
breast cancer. Additionally, Studies show that parabens can mimic estrogen,
potentially stimulating breast cancer cell growth. Studies done on breast
cancer cell lines (MCF-7, T-47-D, ZR-75-1) have shown that parabens can
increase cell migration and invasiveness, yet this is one of the main
components in shampoos.
Breast cancer is the leading cancer worldwide, and among Kenyan women, accounting for around
23–34 cases per 100,000 women. Annually, roughly 6,800 new cases result in
about 3,100 deaths, a striking mortality rate of nearly 45%. Early scientific
research in vitro studies found that phthalate esters can attach to estrogen
receptors, activate estrogen-related genes, and promote the growth of cells
that respond to estrogen, hence can potentially cause cancer. Another
scientific study found four phthalates
in 102 hair sprays, perfumes, fragrances, and nail polishes, DBP in 19 of 21
nail polishes and 11 of 42 perfumes, as well as DEP in 24 of 42 perfumes and 2
of 8 aromatic substances were observed. This is indeed alarming.
In Kenya, the Kenya Bureau of Standards (KEBS) outlines all
requirements for manufacturing non-medicinal cosmetic products in Standard KS
2937:2021. These standard addresses compliance with Good Manufacturing
Practices (GMPs), raw material sourcing, product formulation, and the entire
production process for branded cosmetics. However, in most countries, including
Kenya, companies protect their
proprietary blends, but it can also mean consumers are unaware of the specific
chemicals they are exposed to, as it is only labelled “ parfum.”
A study review of Kenya’s cosmetic industry from 2018 to
2023 identified weaknesses in regulatory enforcement. Key issues included
inaccurate labelling, use of low-quality ingredients, presence of counterfeit
products, and insufficient testing infrastructure, especially among small-scale
or cottage industry producers.
Raising consumer awareness about the harmful effects of
perfumes and colognes, along with developing products using safer, low-risk
ingredients, can help safeguard public health. Given the significant role
aromatic products may play in the development of breast cancer, reformulating
these products or choosing to stop using them altogether can be effective
preventive measures. Moreover, consumers can resort to using essential oils and
organic products, which are costly but safer alternatives.
The paradox lies in how we pursue beauty and comfort through
products that may, silently and invisibly, harm us. The answer is not fear, but
it is education, transparency, and reform.
The writer is a policy
Researcher