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Immaculée Ilibagiza’s memoir is perhaps the bluntest account of how ethnic hate almost ruined Rwanda. As killer squads combed through Tutsi homes, she and seven other women hid in a bathroom. For three months, they survived on barely any food or water. Death beckoned in its rawest form!
Ms Ilibagiza’s ‘Left to Tell’ book reeks of unqualified resilience. I’d love to meet her someday and hear her personal reflections three decades on. A whirlwind of emotions, I can imagine!
Rwanda is certainly a mixed bag. One free-spirited senior editor friend often says what happens in Kigali stays in Kigali. For me, however, the real allure isn’t the glowing faces, the flawless legs, the cute nightlife or even the hills enveloping the capital, but the sheer taste of Rwandan coffee.
My buddy Hassan Ntiyamira was visibly shocked recently when I told him with a straight face that his country’s famed ‘Gorilla coffee’ rivals Vietnamese brews. But if you really want to taste Rwanda’s inner soul, visit Musanze, where traditional banana wine is the real deal.
Rwanda is rich in flora and fauna, too. It takes big pride in gorillas. At Akagera National Park, there are hundreds of Maasai giraffes that were a gift from Kenya. Today, the landlocked nation of 14 million people with a GDP of $16 billion, earns substantial revenue from tourism. The heavens are happy.
However, this month and the next, global attention turns to Rwanda’s political trajectory. This April marks the 32nd anniversary of the 1994 genocide. In the lead-up to ‘Kwibuka’ 2026, President Paul Kagame has raised fresh concerns over the fighting in eastern Congo.
Mr PK says his nation is part of the solution, not the problem. Under the Washington Accord signed on December 4 last year between Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), and witnessed by the US, he questions why the burden of implementation appears to fall disproportionately on Kigali. He has also taken subtle jabs at President Félix Tshisekedi, suggesting that he can distinguish between competent and incompetent leadership. The Congolese president, in turn, blames the activities of M23 and the rise of other militias on Mr Kagame.
In my view, this period should prompt deep reflection, not just in Rwanda but across Africa. It must renew focus on good governance. Let citizens hold leaders accountable. Inspired by Rwanda’s progress and mindful of its tragic past, Africans must collectively reject ethnic division and reclaim their voice through the ballot. In Kenya, we saw how ethnic violence in 2007 nearly led to the collapse of the republic. Rwanda teaches us the importance of self-discipline even if we don’t agree on issues. Personalised attacks witnessed among Kenya’s politicians a few days ago only suggest that we didn’t quite learn from Rwanda’s past or the PNU-ODM post-election killings. Usually, trouble begins with ‘small’ verbal attacks.
Equally, it is sad that in many African countries, leadership feels purposeless. It’s because of divisive politics. In some cases, weak institutions have allowed room for military takeovers. In Nigeria, Bola Tinubu faces mounting pressure from Boko Haram and other militia attacks. Across the border, Tanzania and Uganda have been bruised by allegations of electoral fraud. The picture is less gratifying in Guinea, where voters backed a constitution that allowed a coup leader to run for president. In Chad, MPs scrapped term limits, while in Juba, Salva Kiir is trudging on despite evident tensions.
As our hearts go out to Rwanda, we must borrow lessons from its evolution. Mr Kagame has made strides in reconciliation and tackling corruption. Businesses are growing, investors are coming, women are empowered, infrastructure is improving and political noise is contained.
Rwanda is among the least corrupt countries in Africa, scoring 58 out of 100 on the perceptions index and ranking above the regional average. The question is, how did Mr Kagame pull it off?
Let’s just say whatever we choose to do, ‘Kwibuka’ must not go unnoticed. Who failed the Rwandan people and why? This is the time for a continental reckoning. Even after the darkest night, dawn still breaks.
The writer is a communications practitioner. X:@markoloo
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By Mark Oloo